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Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
Next time, I will not just put my goddamn opponents to run. No, no. I will encircle them first and then even my truck drivers will serve them with their pistols. At our next meeting, these bastards better have handkerchiefs with them because they will all cry. I do not want to lose anymore!
So I would like to ask something please. Apart from the random factor that flows into our game and without taking into account the morality and skill: Would a light infantry unit be more likely to detect an enemy infantry unit than a heavy infantry unit could? Would a heavy infantry unit equipped with the identical armament of a light infantry unit be better able to fight hard targets? I wonder if it is more rewarding for me to fire one burst with HMG #1 on a target, then switch to HMG #2, to also fire and repeat this constantly, or would it be smarter to fire HMG #1 twice, and only then switch to HMG #2 to do the same? Other Targets are not involved. I also wonder if the mortality rate of the first burst of one HMG is higher than the one from his second weapon slot? Or the other way around, if I am in need to save ammo, should I turn off the second weapon slot to get slightly more accuracy, instead of the first? Come on, you're just waiting for your upgrade anyways? Do not let bulgaria wipe their floor with me again! :rant: |
Re: Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
I think their ability to spot doesn't depend on their class of infantry. Even scouts or recce also don't get a bonus. They only get a bonus to their size. Ability to spot seems to rely largely on unit morale and experience.
As for fighting hard targets, I suppose you're referring to anything with armor value of at least 1 all round. I figure as long as the infantry has something with PEN of 1, and WH 3, you're good to go with regards to fighting hard targets, mostly close assaults. MGs wise, if they are not being interdicted by enemy units, i.e., not getting return fire, I'll use 1 MG team to fire consistently till the EN is retreating. This way, you'll likely maximise the accuracy ladder. It's rare to run out of ammo, provided you use MGs in an optimal manner. I usually play Battalion sized maps, around 120x80, with around 45-60 turns for Advance and Attack missions. The MGs usually only start firing around turn 10 onwards, and really have to fire continuously from turn 15 onwards. And the battle is usually over by turn 35-45, so there's enough ammo most of the time. Really, it's more optimal to use MGs at around 75% range, anything more than that is really waste of ammo, unless you've got a fat juicy soft-skinned or crew served target. You're also showing your cards too early, be prepare for a response. |
Re: Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
Spotting is based on experience, not unit class - though vehicles spot infantry less well than other infantry. Remaining stationary, or only moving a hex or so per turn makes spotting more likely (and the faster you go, the more likely to be spotted).
Scouts have no extra spotting ability, thier size 0 may help them get a little closer and so spot an enemy before he sees them - provided they move slowly. "fighting hard targets" - I presume you mean assaulting AFV?. In that case having an anti-tank weapon is a major factor, as is experience and morale. If the AFV is open-topped, it is very vulnerable. Also, the less hexes you move towards the assaulted AFV the better your chance. Firing HMG sections (2 or more H/MMG in a unit) - I never turn off the barrels. Sometimes it is good to spread fire over several units, especially when the enemy is bunched up - HMG have a 1 hex blast radius and so firing at several units in a clump can help to "spread the joy" amongst the clump, though shots that miss can do the same effect anyway, and the multiple barrels in the one unit make sections much better at the job than "singleton" MGs. Also good to shoot up oncoming enemy tanks with as they may have tank riders which will take casualties from MMG fires on the tanks. And a wonderful toy to deal with any enemy that decides to come at you with truck-bone infantry!. Main thing to remember with H/MMG is to keep beyond enemy infantry LMG range - they will start to take return fire at 600m, so a firing range of 700+. The AI will treat them as priority artillery targets once spotted, so have a half-track nearby to scoot off on if you can. |
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Thanks for your response sigeena.
Then the different infantry classes of light, medium and heavy exist because they are expected in scenarios? An infantry with little ammo and no bazooka is light Infantry, the one with a Panzerfaust would be a heavy one? A light infantry unit less than 6 men would be a reconnaissance unit and therefore named as such because they themselves are not so well recognized plus wear SMG's, therefore do not draw attention quickly. Like that? Yes, the matter with the MG's. I try to understand the game mechanics and the different units better. That's why I play on a small terrain. 2 mortars behind, two MG's provide cover to four to six Infantry Units which try to stop the advance against a numerically far superior opponent or to reach the opposite side in a breakthrough. I'm trying to lose so I'll get better. To practice supplying, my MG's have 20 shots in the first and second weapon slot, but I will give up the supply, the opponents have none too. Only training that I play like a jerk. Under real conditions I would have pulled their own underpants over their heads, so I can eat my sauerkraut on their victory hexes without further disturbance. :angel: Much thanks Mobhack, there are no questions left. I think I understood. Presumably I was just confused by the mass of different unit classes and clones of them. Became unsure after dealing with mobhack program. Yes you both, I meant AFV's with hard targets. Thanks again both of you! I am gone for a moment. With my new knowledge, I have to prepare a mass migration of Bulgarians towards the Black Sea. :D |
Re: Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
Unit classes exist for OOBs - if you only want a certain type in the mech companies, the leg companies, commando companies etc. Some unit classes have extra attributes - see the Game Guide (e.g. mountaineers are less affected by rough/impassable terrain for movement). Some classes are better as paratroopers (the para and commando classes) - ordinary guys thrown out the back of a plane will have more landing casualties.
There is basically no difference between a "heavy" section and a "light" one bar the name and the unit class. the heavy is typically used for e.g. a British platoon with the HQ and weapons section, the other 3 being of another class. Thus the HQ section has the PIAT and 2in mortar, the rifle sections have the regular platoon weapons. |
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Thanks for the comprehensive explanations Andi, this makes me feel much safer for campaigning and selecting my core troops. I might have lost myself in troop selection, as extensive as the German oob is. Lastly I played with US Marines on a small, 10 map long campaign. That was easier for me, because the choice of useful units for my core was much simpler as a noob that I am.
Of course you have heard this many times, those who know the game for a long time know about the connections and love the game anyway. But actually, it's easy to peek behind the curtain as a freshman too and then the playing get's even better and better because it is a lot more fun knowing what to do. It becomes strategic for me and I like that step much. That is because of the community and because you're so busy with us! Tsssss what I probably wanted to say was just thanks. :) I am happy about that great game! Look for yourself, that is me after after triggering a mass panic in an idyllic mountain village near the danube. Attachment 15709 |
Re: Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
Could I provoke the computer opponent to attack with his artillery by placing smoke somewhere on the map?
Would i have to use physical units for that, or could i just as well do that with my light artillery? |
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Smoke screens by themselves are not of any interest. |
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Many thanks! What a joy to play, there's always more to learn :-)
Hello to everyone, do you have more tricks in stock? Always out with it. Is it better to buy companies for a long campaign game, or would it be smarter to take platoons? Does it even matter in terms of level them up? I have created a folder, there I collect every information that can be helpful to me once. Do you guys have something like that too? That was not very smart to make it with snipping tool, I would have better copied the text. :doh: Attachment 15721 |
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Purchase companies.
Suggestion, make a HQ company like so (this is just roughly): A0 (You) B0 (Your FOO) AAA section/platoon ATG section/platoon Sec platoon for your A0 Arty/Mtr section/platoon Optional Transport for the above if it did not come with it Company 1 (I usually purchase infantry company) Engineer Platoon to cross attach to Company 1 Scout section(1-3) to cross attach to Company 1 Repeat for Company 2 Company 3 (report or make AFV): 1 Tank Company 1 AC section/platoon to cross attach to Tank Company Etc. A0 rallies all but goes to Company 1 HQ, 2 HQ, 3 HQ, etc. cross-attached platoons/sections go reverse <- Company 1 etc. then back to A0 etc. |
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Thanks mate!
I thought that a platoon leader, corporal or so, gets more points in a promotion than an officer. So that a lower rank who has participated in many battles and rose to major for instance, in the end has better values than the major who is bought in the beginning. That's why I only bought the ones that I thought were the lowest tier. |
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If your English is okay read the game guide it will give you a lot of info to make you a better player as you will understand how things work.
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Re: Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
As I mentioned earlier, I like to play around the Inf Bn, so my set-up usually is as such
A0- CO B0- Weapons/ Hvy Coy OC (Possibly FOO) C0- Mortar Pl D0- HMG Pl E0- HMG Pl F0- Inf Coy OC G0- Inf Pl H0- Inf Pl I0- Inf Pl J0- Inf Coy OC K0- Inf Pl L0- Inf Pl M0- Inf Pl N0- Inf Coy OC O0- Inf Pl P0- Inf Pl Q0- Inf Pl This is quite a versatile set-up, and depending on mission type, I'll add Engineers if Assault, some light armour if Advance, and AT guns if Defend or Delay. On Assault and Advance, the HMGs Pl will be attached to the Inf Coy OCs for better C&C. |
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I wonder if it makes sense to start a campaign game with lowest tier infantry squads instead of more experienced ones? I am persistent, although the question is actually not that important so I would have to ask it several times. Because of your question if my English is good enough? Sometimes it is difficult. Many things in Gme Guide I have to read several times, but I try to get better. Please write back because you are an experienced player. |
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It would help to know what era interests you.
For example if your interested in say the British in North Africa you could do something like: WW2 Long CG Setup Player 1: Great Britain Change Start Date to February 1941 Set preferences to at least 3000 Battle Points (you don't have to spend them all) and the map to say 70x70 (or if you want a smaller one 50x50) Select North Africa Purchase (just a suggestion): A0 British HQ (you) HQ Company: B0 = FOO Vehicle (Dingo AOP) <- Be vary careful with this unit, you want him to survive to gain experience so as to get better. C = Mortar Platoon (3in Mortar Sec) D = AT-Gun Troop/T (2 Pdr AT-Gun, Light Lorry) E = AA-Gun Section (40mm Boofors) F = Rifle Company (select the 2nd Medium Infantry unit with the Boys AT-Rifle and for the Infantry selection pick the one with the LMG) J = Patrol+ (this will be cross attached to the F rifle company) K = Engineer Pl (this will be cross attached to the F rifle company) L = Machinegun PL (this will be cross attached to the F rifle company) M = Valentine Troop (this will be cross attached to the F rifle company) That will cost about 1021 points and give you a nice small company sized force to trash about with. You don't need to buy conscripts and have them updated over time, most first line units will gain experience if they survive over time. Same with 'elite' units, such as pioneers or engineers, they generally start off at the national level for their ratings and it takes time to get them to more experienced levels. Recommend you start off smallish with a company or two. |
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Thanks a lot, Zovs. I have no idea about the time and no preferences about a era. I thought it would be okay to play a campaign as a German, so I could at least learn that SdKfZ is the abbreviation for Sonderkraftfahrzeug or what else there is to know. Actually, I enjoyed playing with different states. But now I would like to see my troops getting better and better throughout a campaign. When my vacation is over, I want to start with it. My plan is to understand as much as possible from gameplay till then, because afterwards I will hardly have the time. But hopefully, to play my campaign!
I thought it would be good if I started with a map size of 40x60 or 80, so that I am not too overwhelmed? I would like to upgrade my A0 later to a FOO unit, if that makes sense and renounce artillery as a core force. I imagined that on narrow, long maps, the paths to the enemy is probably only on a street in the middle. I hope with 40 Height, I could either bypass the enemies or fight a bloody fight with losses if my troops going straight towards them? "You don't need to buy conscripts and have them updated over time, most first line units will gain experience if they survive over time." I will heed that! :) If I give up temporary troops, my units will gain experience faster, yes? |
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A 40x60 sized map with say 1000-2000 points would do you fine.
My opinion and I highly suggest don't and never upgrade your A0 to anything, he has special status as a HQ unit. He can call (Spot) Arty and Air. I repeat leave the A0 alone. I have been playing this game for over 20 years and I don't recommend updating upgrading or chainging your A0. I recommend at least reading through the tutorial and also if you left click in the game guide on: Game Play Notes (or search Ctl+F) and read that section to help you out. I also have created many good starter scenarios (check the guide under the tutorial section for beginning scenarios list). |
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Try something small and a generated campaign not the Long campaign... not tiny but maybe a Company of tanks or a couple of platoons... and 2-3 Companies of infantry along with a few mortars....maybe 1500 points. Start it September 1939 let it run to October 1939 and set it for 10 battles. Set your map to 40x60 and try it on the easy setting for a start
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I would like to re-iterate what Zovs66 said: NEVER change your A0! Buy a dedicated FO as your first troop purchase (B0) - he is easier to find that way. Then purchase your company(ies) A couple of Tips: Remember if two or more of your troops can autofire/reaction fire/opfire the one with the lowest identifier will fire first. (ie C3 an infantry section and E1 a tank can both op fire at an advancing tank, the infantry will fire first [assuming range, weapons, etc]. A dedicated company / platoon structure gives much better rally and command for your boys |
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Besides, An A0 unit has nearly identical FOOing ability but getting the AO killed ends your campaign so you want a FOO that can get in a bit more harms way than the HQ should. A FOO (or FO if you prefer ) should be the first thing you buy for your core as the HQ is automatic. Then after that buy the arty you want for your core.....then buy the rest
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Making A0 a vehicle of some sort
- loses his artillery ability - means the enemy planes will probably strafe him - or some random tank will pop him A0's job is to hide on the baseline. He is the link to off-map artillery (If you lose A0 then they will fall off the radio net more often) and if you lose A0, the campaign is over. Loss of A0 is a bad thing on the morale front - it is more likely that your troops will reach "force broken" status if he is dead or in rout. Don't risk A0, basically. Fighting is not his job - this is not SP1 where you were limited to about 24 core units so "Ramboing up" the A0 was worth the risk. Our cores can go up to 200. |
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A campaign with 10 maps. 40x60, foo additionally and no experiments with the headquarters. I promise it! Thank you all together for your help.
"I also have created many good starter scenarios (check the guide under the tutorial section for beginning scenarios list)." I'll play them Zovs66, but the one with Michael Witmann I leave out. :nana: thanks for creating them! Thanks Scorpio and DRG for your additional Tips :medal: Making A0 a vehicle of some sort -loses his artillery ability Mobhack, damned that was exactly my plan behind the plan but I really did not want to admit that. :smirk: imp: At the moment I am reading "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" by Diana Louise Walstad and "Mortars and Rockets" from Terry Chamberlain and Terry Gandler. Both are probably not suitable to speak better English, but I hope something stays. |
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I think there is not much to add to what they taught him. Only it's good what you propose to do short battles on small maps with few troops. That will help you to know how the units react in battle. The battle orders that happened to him are pretty good, but he would try to use more variety of troops. Infantry, motorized infantry, scouts, sniper, antitank infantry, machine guns, antitank guns, mortars, off-map artillery, armored vehicles and tanks. That would be within two reinforced companies. You can buy the two companies, one infantry and one armored company. You can remove platoons from these companies so that you do not have as many units and fill the gaps with auxiliary or support units mainly in the armored company. Remember that you can assign those units added to any of the companies (button "h" details of the company ... etc.). That is, it uses combined forces. As you move through the campaign and see that you manage the units well you can add platoons and attach them to the companies you already have, or add more companies. It is as if he were promoted from a lieutenant commanding a reinforced company to colonel or general when he has one, two or three battalions. If you are interested, I can see how to put together a campaign and send you the saved game. It is good long campaign although I do not finish it. In generated campaign you can only choose 3 opponents. In the German long campaign he can fight with Poland, France, perhaps Holland, England, Australia, Russia ... in the first 15 or 20 battles. |
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Hello Roman, thank you for all the information and especially for the support with the save, but then I could not put together my own troops or maybe I just did not understand good enough? But just do it in an attachment, I'll definitely try it. After all, I have nothing to do for more than a week. Except to try Zov's beginner scenarios to then start my 10 map 40x60 campaign. I am really looking forward to it.
If time gets too short, I will neither rinse nor clean up till my job is done. I only do this for my country! :D I have read till now, totally forgotten the time so I answer this late. Look whom I discovered on a photo. He is also in our game :-) |
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anlubue
Here are the files. Your task is to assign the units that are added. You'll see I bought an infantry company, but I removed two original platoons and added two platoons of panzer grenadiers. You must assign them to company F. As to the other support units. I bought a company of medium tanks. But since at the beginning of the war there were few Panzer IV and III tanks, I only left the panzer IV of the company chief, a panzer platoon II and added armored cars and a panzer platoon III. So you must assign these last units to the armored company. I hope you have made me understand ... I do not speak English very well and I use the google translator. :) As you advance in the campaign you can add units or buy new ones trying to do something similar to what I did, with what you think is necessary. You can also consider enlarging the map. |
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I will start your campaign as soon as I am done with my 60x40x10 map thing. Thank you for your care. Saludos cordiales a Argentina, en Unión y Libertad |
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Not that good. The words just do not want to come. Exactly like the artillery support on my todays fight against the brave french. They sucked me into the role of a dutiful loser. Therefore we urgently need an independent language so nobody can laugh about us. I'm starting:
Me enemy dem are good warriors. Dem french tanks are as big as di Hindenburg. Burnin dem Matildas is hard work for German Rastafarians. Me tell em to push-push but nuttin happened. Only wit smoke I and I was able to save dem Jerrys over time. :laugh: :jam |
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Aye el capitan, i will sneak up from behind.
Actually it is very sad that the next time we meet, I have to depopulate there whole countryside with my newly buyed SS-KoC's. (Krauts on Crack) I then put the shoulder badges of these Frenchman's into their bowl of snails soup. :evil: Either that or I will again be steamrolled. Next time I will try the Panzerjager too, had only infanterie and artillery. Thanks for your advice Roman. |
Re: Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
For the Invasion of France in May 1940, German armour will be outclassed in a straight-up fight. The main weapons to destroy French and British armour are as follows, especially their slow and heavy ones.
1. 8.8cm FlaK is the most reliable, and long range. Problem is French terrain is likely to be wooded and hilly, with lack of good LOS. It is further complicated by its lack of mobility, so you may need to emplace it beforehand and generally draw the enemy armour towards it. There are also SP-AT types which mount the 8.8cm FlaK. These are generally reliable if the map is open terrain type. 2. 4.7cm PaK (t) is one of my preferred choices, it has limited mobility, but it can still move 1 hex if necessary. At size 0, it is harder to spot and target. If sabot is not available, it is generally able to destroy Allied armour, except for their heaviest types. The Panzerjager I is the SP form of it. 3. Infantry. Best infantry types to destroy enemy armour are the Engineers with flamethrowers. You don't even need to close assault the enemy to destroy them if you still have flamethrower available. Problem is that it needs to get up close. So your other infantry has to distract and destroy the enemy infantry that is escorting the armour. Once the enemy infantry is scattered and their armour buttoned up, they are blind and your engineers can get up close. So in all, if the map is open, I recommend using the 8.8cm FlaK and its SP variants. If the map is mixed, I recommend 4.7cm PaK and its SP variants. If the map is close (urban), I recommend using infantry and engineers. |
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Many thanks for making such a big effort with me. You explained that great.
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I got a little better. That's why I am smiling now, as if I had been awarded a Nobel Prize. :cool:
That was badly needed, because I hate it when one of my units gets completely destroyed. From my side, they can flee from the battlefield, but if they are destroyed to the last man, that hurts. I have been constantly re-starting to prevent writing letters to the bereaved. :dk: In the evening I review some of my decisions. I have dreamed of it already. The game captivates me. :crazy: Did that happen to you too? It's a bit like RPG that I can name the leaders of each unit. Since I found out, playing became much more profound for me. I like it a lot! And now I have no time to chat any longer. Major Breidscheidt has reported over the radio, that several companies of British soldiers were sighted in our homeland. The Fuhrer himself was angered, when he heard that each one of these guys wears a medallion with the image of the Queen Mother. He ordered me to redesign these medallions with proper photographs of Marlene Dietrich and Eva Braun and then send these misguided ones back to their isle. As soon as those cursed 25 pounders stop firing at me, I start with it. Keep your fingers crossed! |
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I wanted to ask you something, please. So it is because sometimes I lose track of the many, many German units. After a battle I repair my units with the given victory points and then I try to upgrade them as well.
Because most of the time, I have no idea of the respective advantages of the different weapons, it ultimately comes down to the fact that I choose the most expensive unit, rather than the one that maybe better fits my playing style. And I thought to myself, it might be a good idea, to slim down the German oob a bit? You know, for you grognards it's definitely nice to have all those little details. The Panzer III in Ausf. E with and without rubber tracks or headrest, another MG but somehow makes no big difference for me. It's a bit like going to a hairdresser and the guy pours 3 different conditioners on my hair first, instead of washing and cutting them. Please do not get me wrong, I think it's really great that we have all these possibilities in play and the huge selection of different weapons and units. Just for me alone it is very overwhelming. Yet. Anyway, I noticed that when I look at units with Mobhack, some of them are underlined. There stands for example FJg group, instead of FJg group. And I was wondering what that means? |
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Well, but you have all the data provided in game, with armour, penetrations, speed and fire control settings. Why not comparing them?
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from the mobhack help, units tab:
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Attachment 15792 In the above picture I have seen a unit armed with a carbine. The maximum range of the weapon is 500 meters. The cost is 25. These guys I throw from a plane and with a little luck they land next to an enemy unit. All good, they're doing their thing.:up: Attachment 15793 And there is another group of FJg's. Apart from that the guy on the photograph looks like he's thinking of his girl, this unit has a submachine gun instead of the 98k and costs 24 points. The maximum Range of the smg is 150 meters. (They also have different MG's but that does not bother me with my thoughts now.) Normally, I would prefer the unit which is a bit more expensive so I do not have to think about it. But in this case, I think it would be better to land next to an enemy with a submachine gun in hand, rather than a carbine and therefore, although a comparison of the pure data would allow a different resume, I'd prefer the paratroopers with MP38/40. And because of all these, I thought to myself: Hey (Yoh), why do not you just delete all the units you do not understand and then you just have two different paratroopers during your second world war? One with bazooka for later and once with any predecessor of the bazooka for beginning of war. Both times with submachine guns. A good stroke of genius mhm? In the pictures you can see also why I was wondering that some units are underlined and the others are not. Thanks for the explanation @Andy. |
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Well. I'll hate to be your type of Fallschirm. I wouldn't like to be dropped next to my enemy. Close yes, but at least 700m away.
Jokes aside, the units are not always so uniform. Some platoons have 2 sections of smgs and another 2 sections with rifles. Tbh, I much prefer the ones with heavier AT weapons. |
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....and that is why we offer a wide variety of choices
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SMG has less range than rifles - but hits harder when in range. If fighting in woods, at night or in towns, you may prefer the bullet-hoses. me, I usually prefer the range that rifles give me in the open.
The LMG is effectively no difference (in MBT you can have short ranged LMG with assault rifle ammo, or long range ones with full-fat rifle ammo - the latter are definitely better as range is 600m, not 4-500!) The Anti-tank weapon differs considerably IIRC (check the HEAT values for the gebalt ladnung and Pzhm 3). |
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That's why I spoke to the Oberkommando of Wehrmacht, and demanded that my men's iron crosses should be already awarded before the battle. (The Führer's little beard trembled a little when I brought up my idea. You can say he acts a bit stubborn on unconventional ideas and he also mumbles when he gets upset.) No joking, I wanted to drop my men where they are in relative safety. On a free surface ideally. But each time they end up next to their enemy. (60 high x 100 long so I am not really surprised) Heavier AT weapons, geballte Ladung and Pzhm 3, checking of HEAT values ... Oh, now I think I understand? Of course, I should also remember that possibly enemy tanks are waiting for my soldiers? So far, my FJg have only had to fight against enemy infantry and I never thought of that. Thank you all much for your answers! [DRG: ... and that is why we offer a wide variety of choices] You have really done a great job! Maybe I should probably read the manual instead of modifying my oob ... otherwise I do not have much of all the possibilities? Thanks again to all :heart: |
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troopie |
Re: Infantry class differences, MG fire modes while delaying
You mean in real life? Selous Scout, FAL something rifle? Or is there one assault rifle in spww2 also?
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There is only one "assault rifle" in SPWW2 because it's was the first one in existence----- German W153 covers the MP43/MP44/STG44
http://forum.shrapnelgames.com/attac...1&d=1567626287http://forum.shrapnelgames.com/attac...1&d=1567626909 That's my MP43 ( and it's authentic..not a repro). |
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Wow! Somehow beautiful right? With the wood ... :up:
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