True Troop Cost
 

Hello

Is it possible to minimalize the influence of experience on final cost of troops? When I play Germany I am being swarmed by Soviet units, which are not only originally cheaper (what I like), but the opponent also plays only halve of that original price.

Re: True Troop Cost
 

can you be clearer? does your opponent (an human?) buys cheaper troops by lowering their exp?

that would be interesting. personnaly i thought that low exp troops were useless, and contrarily, from times to times i was buying more experimented troops (around 90 exp)

if this is the case, try to buy a few mortars. low exp troops suppress very easily and then refuse to fight.

moreover they do not spot anything.

there are many solutions to your problem

Re: True Troop Cost
 

another thought, a bit out of topic yet.

one of my fondiest memory of winspww2 was at the beginning of my long campaign i am in currently. in 1941 in the desert in tunisia i had to face the ANZAC. and the ai bought only infantry troops.

there were hundreds of them, with nothing else. funny, isn't?
i had to flee due to out of ammunition. my AT units useless as well as many other units

this is being swarmed!

Re: True Troop Cost
 

Hi

I can. I was experimenting with small (1 rifle company + support) urban fights German vs Soviet in '39*. Computer buys for him. His troops are originally twice cheaper, and after experience discount he has four time my number of troops. They are coming like a big wave. Every my squad can shot a few. After I am out of opportunity fire they keep still coming and are killing and routing my troops.
I use 82mm mortars, but they are not so helpful danger close.

At the desert you could maybe buy some HMG/MMG and keep them at distance. Meeting engagement with such disproportion of men goes for me into defending scenario.

* I know that at that moment they were allies so the situation is hypothetical.

Re: True Troop Cost
 

The poorer quality troops spot worse, shoot worse, rally worse and recover from rout worse.

The situation that you are in is the one that gives sheer numbers a real advantage - point blank combat in a wood, or FIBUA.

At such short ranges, the poor spotting and shooting is little disadvantage - at one hex most things will generally hit and see.

How to deal with that - you need to keep him away from contact, by standing still and laying down a belt of indirect fire 2-4 hexes in front of your troops to take advantage of the poor quality leadership. Then only a manageable amount of enemy troops will drizzle into your firing line, and they will very likely be suppressed (and suppression has worse effect on these troops, so they may not return fire or even spot your firing line before being repulsed) and a large bunch of suppressed poor quality troops will build up in the beaten zone and behind it. As these are mortared, then the suppression and poor rally of the leaders will mount over a few turns, and units will start to break and run to the rear.

A section of 2-3 mortars in direct support per platoon in your defensive line should do the trick. (Remember to buy ammo units!) Platoon will be deployed 1 hex apart (no gaps), with any little inf-AT teams doubled up with another section. If it is a wood or there are hexes in a BUA that allow tanks up with yourt defenders - this is where a Pz1 or other light tank (Stuarts are very good - many MG slots) is a perfect little toy, with 2xMG and plenty of ammo and a closed top. Stack them with a rifle team.

If advancing into such terrain - if you really have to! - full of low quality infantry, then double the allocation of mortars, and add a battery of arty. Only advance 1 hex at a time slowly through the cover. Advance the light tanks after the infantry.

In both cases - if you have some extra mortars or 75mm infantry guns - then fire these a bit deeper behind the main fire belt and work them from side to side or back and forwards - this will chivvy on any routers the main fire belt has panicked.

Andy

Re: True Troop Cost
 

Machineguns and direct fire guns are your friend in such situations. Keep them tucked behind your infantry, fire direct if they can, indirect if you have to. Create a killing zone (for example a wide gap between buildings/stream through a forest...)

Re: True Troop Cost
 

The OP was talking about FIBUA or FISH & CHIPS* and/or forests - MMG are not that much help in such a knife fight. A belt of indirect HE laid danger close is the primary support tool to use here.

Andy

* FIBUA - Fighting In Built Up Areas - British official acronym
FISH and CHIPS - Fighting In Someone's House and Causing Havoc In People's Streets - a squaddy colloquialism for FIBUA

Re: True Troop Cost
 

this comes up when fighting the polish too, or early war soviets a lot.

Artillery, loads of it. Even mortars can do a good job killing untrained grunts in the open, but you have to ensure you keep pummeling them with it. 1-2 turns wont be enough.

Don't be too worried about the odd shell falling too close. Your guys will really quicker.

MGs are great IF you can find a place behind the line where you can deploy them. They tend to get picked to pieces if they are within easy rifle range though

Also, consider some armoured cars or light tanks. They can draw infantry fire well, and it'll take them a long time to deal with them.
In actual urban combat, they aren't so hot though.