When can you see candles?

[Cainehill]

From what I understand, you only see the candles and detect the dominion for provinces that either have positive (maybe neutral) dominion, and for provinces that are next to a province you have friendly dominion in.

I think owning the province also lets you see the flags, so you can tell how bad things are when you have one province left with a 2 dominion, and huge red flags in all your other provinces.